| .I depart from Mandiana customs check point in the | | | | A build up to the mighty dam that feeds three quarters |
| afternoon and follow the road towards Niani.Without a | | | | of Mali with electricity, the Barrage de Selingui. A |
| proper map (as there is none) the road is not clearly | | | | gigantic project as I am to see later on. A premonition |
| marked, especially its condition. To my astonishment I | | | | overcomes me I can't explain why, but I slow down |
| find it in much better condition than the ones I got used | | | | my vehicle to a mere 10 mph. I cannot see the road |
| to since entering Guinea. | | | | ahead of me, and the high beams are not helping |
| At 40-50 mph this seems a real highway to me. A | | | | much either. I notice the concrete structure that stands |
| few checkpoints on the way, nothing spectacular, the | | | | in the dark was once a bride crossing a creek |
| usual 'pay 'n drive' method works well here. | | | | beneath. Now, the bridge has been washed away, and |
| The scenery has changed into complete Savannah | | | | I am standing 6 meters over the creek that floats |
| now. Grasslands and scrubs, solitary Baobab trees, but | | | | beneath under it. In the darkness I maneuver the car |
| no more the dense tropical jungle. Life in these areas is | | | | back and find a diversion I passed minutes ago, leading |
| dreadful, no running water, no electricity, as in dark | | | | to the creek's bottom. |
| ages. People though can adapt to any condition that is | | | | The normal type of vehicle would not be able to drive |
| put upon them. We reach Niani at night close to 19 | | | | through this makeshift road, but I manage to cross the |
| hours P.M. and my fuel is close to nil. Of course Niani, | | | | waters which aren't deep surprisingly and climb up the |
| the border town must be having fuel, or so I think. | | | | other side to continue my journey. |
| What I finally find is not the usual filling station. | | | | The road turns to the left and leads into pure |
| After crossing the town, which is not much of a | | | | grassland, with bumps shaking us to the brink. In the |
| settlement, I am directed to the 'station'. I can not | | | | distance a see a shimmering light, a line decorated with |
| somehow forget this scene, it is another milestone on | | | | obsolete plastic carrier bags in all colors indicate a |
| a long road through Africa. I find a petroleum lit grass | | | | further check point. No one in sight, in the middle of the |
| hut, crooked stems serve as poles, a straw covered | | | | Savannah. I blow my horn. It is now 20 hours and I still |
| roof. The fuel is all filled in beer bottles of 0.7 ltrs, lined | | | | have to make headway, I force myself. After a few |
| up in a row on front of the 'gas station'. If it were not | | | | minutes a customs guy appears and tells me the |
| for the acute shortage, I would laugh at this, but now I | | | | border is closed for tonight, from his uniform I can see |
| realize I have no choice, for after Niani there is a 100 | | | | we have reached the Malian customs. |
| miles nothing except bush and unknown territory. So I | | | | I beg, a common way of getting things done in these |
| fill a 50 bottles of 'beer' gas, its price almost double | | | | parts, to let me pass, as I have pressing business in |
| inflated to the normal rate. I do not even want to look | | | | Bamako. After consultation for which he disappears |
| for food, for I know I have to continue to Mali tonight. | | | | back into the dark, he reappears and removes the |
| So I leave, with a unforgettable memory in place. | | | | rope that serves as a barrier. We cross the line and |
| The evening brings some cool air, I sense the mighty | | | | follow him, guiding us to a shelter build from grass, |
| river nearby. And when I reach the bonfire that is lit | | | | roots and pieces of logs. The papers I am asked to |
| near the main road I recognize the Guinean border | | | | submit. He disappears into the hut, and I wait. 5 minutes, |
| guards who camp here. To describe this would take | | | | 10 minutes pass. After 15 minutes I follow him and see |
| another chapter, however this is an entry / exit point | | | | three customs officials inspecting my 'international |
| and I must say the guards are the friendliest I ever | | | | vaccination card'. |
| found in Guinea. The exit stamp in my passport, i carry | | | | I am asked if all my vaccinations are in order, which I |
| on, the dark road passing through the middle of the | | | | confirm. Something they must find, and in my case |
| bush, beside the river. Driving carefully in the dark, | | | | they ask me for a valid 'Vaccination contre Meningitis' |
| against my mentors advice, I focus my full attention on | | | | as you guess right the vaccination against Meningitis is |
| the rough road ahead of me. | | | | what delays my departure. 5000 CFA change their |
| The river Sankarani I cant see, as it is dark, but to me it | | | | hands and I carry on through the night. |
| is more a lake than a river. Floating gently, but mightily. | | | | |