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Article #117: Never Tour a Remote Pretty Country Like This

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Within two hours you can reach just about road?"
everywhere if you stay in Glencoe, "Ok"
Scotland. It is a remote and bautiful Single track road, with hardly any
glen and you can get to the lovely misty passing places. If you meet a car coming
Isle of Skye, to Loch Ness and the the other way the chances are that one of
Monster country, to Edinburgh, to the you will have to reverse, but you'll
West Coast and you can watch whales. exchange a wave.
But don't try to do it all. That is a "Wonder where the old slipway is, we
terrible mistake. You'll wear yourself found it before remember?"
out. The beauty will rush past. You'll This is where the people, and cattle,
meet no one interesting. used to cross in a big rowing boat ferry
This is what most people do. 200 years ago when they travelled the
You are 12th in line behind the caravan down the coast from North to South. Cuts
at the front. A slow right hand bend off a days walk round the coast, and many
comes up and you drift out to see if cars famous people in history have used it. It
are coming, but you notice the car in is about a mile across and the Spring
front has edged up to make it difficult tide flows strongly.
for you to overtake. So we stopped to ask Charlie Moore who
"Look at that castle over there, Dad," was planting some larch trees in his
"In a minute, son," garden. We didn't kow him, but that does
Then your concentration slips and not stop people from talking together
disaster strikes. You took your eye off with strangers.
the car behind and now he has whipped in The answer lasted for an hour as we
front of you. The speedo tells you you swapped stories of the roe deer in his
are doing no more than 45mph. You are garden, the old ferry, the new pier
tired, irritable and bored. That's not a restaurant owners in the village, and the
holiday. evening when he froze in his garden as an
To-day Gillian and I toured Scotland the otter walked by his feet. The answer
correct way. We started out as usual with included his early days in the Orkney
little idea of where we were heading. Isles.
"South?" His neighbours get some groceries for
"Ok." him, but he walks three miles to the
"Stalker Castle for soup and a roll?" nearest bus. Lovely man, didn't sound
"Why not?" Scottish at all, but that's the Orcadians
A ride along the edge of Loch Linnhe, on for you.
a little road, with the mountains of Back to the cottage half an hour later
Morven across the water. No traffic. taking in little Port Appin and its small
Yesterday's cold front had passed over passenger ferry to Lismore on the way.
leaving a cool, clear and sunny day. The Total distance travelled? About 25 miles.
air was fresh and you could see for miles That's the way you tour Scotland
down the Sound towards Mull. properly. You don't go past it in a car.
"How about taking our little North Shian You go into it with the people.






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